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Archive for Shopping

What is I.T?

Given the dismal economic outlook, it comes without much appetite to suggest that one go shopping in Hong Kong. (To wit, I have rewritten this opening sentence at least five times since settling on this one.) But at the same time, one must tell it like it is: HK is about the shopping. It is not about reading circles and literary salons and idle afternoon contemplations over a cappuccio on the terrasse. It is about shuh-opping.

One of the most visible manifestations of rampant retail therapy is sartorial; Hong Kong is about clothes shopping. If that interests you, I’ll further posit that this activity will be particularly fruitful for those in the readership who are, like us, of a smaller stature. Because being in Asia — and being Asian, for the most part, unless you are Yao Ming — you will find that the bar on S, M, L, XL definitions is lower. And thankfully so; entering the fitting room, you may be surprised to realize that the erstwhile droopy shoulders, boxy sleeves and unruly hem-lines — that you have steeled yourself for after years of buying ill-fitting, potato sack-like clothing in the West — are gone. (And gone with that, too, the additional hassle and expense of taking the durn thing to the tailor afterwards).

So then, where to go and blow the proverbial wad? Ahh but grasshopper, that is a question of style and interest-level. As a start, Hong Kong, being a wonderland of materialism, carries all the major labels from Paris, Milan, New York, London, Tokyo. (Surprisingly or not, the prices for many European brands will be cheaper by upwards of 20% than back home. Guess who is waiting to buy his wedding shoes in HK? Word.) But really, it’s not about the major labels; the fun involves heading into the wilds of Causeway Bay or Kowloon to dig thru the racks of the smaller, local shops, which carry the wares of younger, lesser-known designers.

I won’t get into any sort of list of places to go; I think it’s best for you to just wander around Causeway Bay and duck into various boutiques, many of which are scattered in the upper floors of malls (unlike in, say, New York, which is structured sort of like tiramisu, with the goods — i.e. commercial and retail outlets — on the bottom, stacked above by a boring spongey mass of residential, Asian cities are set up more like layer cakes, with stuff going down on the upper floors, and even the roof, of the bldg). In any case, one place that we have reliably found cool threads and decent deals at is with i.t and its myriad subsidiary outlets.

I’m unclear about the corporate structure, but my take is that I.T is an umbrella company that owns several fashion outlets — sort of a youthful, ‘contempo-casual’ version of LMVH. When you wander into one of their main stores — I.T (for the fashionista grownups) or i.t (for the hipster kids) — you’ll see racks of clothing separated in sections by designer (if you’ve gone to Opening Ceremony in New York you’ll be familiar with the concept).

I.T also has something to do with two other outlets that we’ve also been lucky with: izzue.com and 5cm. The look n’ feel is all black, white, or otherwise neutral palettes. Wool and cotton dominate. Stripes prevail. As do funky touches, like built-in ties. Think Club Monaco with a tweakier edge; the architects will eat it up …

Hong Kong tailors

One of the primary draws of showing up in Hong Kong is to have a suit made to measure. Another, related draw, is coming to Hong Kong and getting garments you own copied in whichever fabric you choose. Topping this is having only to pay Chine$e prices.

Bespoke culture is pervasive in Hong Kong, having arrived via Shanghai following the communist takeover over of China in the late forties. Not seeing much of a market in China with the rise of the ubiquitous Mao suit, Shanghainese tailors skipped south to Hong Kong, then still a free colony under British administration. There they found a good fit (har!), plying their wares for the bustling commercial and banking culture in HK. A half-century later and the practice is still going strong.

So, the basics: you walk into a tailor shop and you’ll get your measurements taken. Then you’ll pick out materials, and will be told when to come back for your fitting (usually the next day or the day after). For the fitting, the tailor will have constructed a rough body for you to try on. Here they’ll fine tune, marking places to take in, areas to loosen up, etc. Depending on the place, there may or may not be a third fitting, but generally your suit should be ready by the next day. If you’re not around to pick it up, they’ll ship it out to you. Overall, the turnover is around 3-4 days, and the average cost for getting a full suit with slacks made is $300-400USD. A bespoke shirt is usually around $50USD.

And now, a few tips. HK tailors have been doing this for years and years, and thereby have a very established mental model for what a suit is. If you have a different idea, or want to tweak some details, it may blow some minds. The best practice is to bring a photo of something you want to have reproduced, or better yet, bring in a shirt/pants/suit that you own and love, and have them copy the cut exactly. The key thing to remember is to be insistent if you have a strong idea of what you want!

Which tailor to go to? There are hundreds to choose from, most of them located in Kowloon. The fancier ones will be located in, around or below the hotels in Tsim Sha Tsui, while the cheaper guys will be scattered along Nathan Road further north. The cheapest of all ($150-200USD for a full suit) will be located a train ride away in Shenzhen in China, although like anything in life (and in regards to products made in China!), caveat emptor

There are a couple that Meredith and I have used that we’ve been fairly happy with. Amigo Tailor and Ricky’s Tailor are both located in the New World Centre in Tsim Sha Tsui. See below:

Of the two, Amigo is more amenable to direction, but Ricky’s makes really good men’s slacks. Both are priced equivalently, and turn things around fairly quickly (Amigo may be a tad quicker) …